Doggy Topics
There are many issues that relate to all dogs, not just Border Collies and below you will find some interesting topics regarding your fur-friend. I will add to these on a regular basis as well as incorporate some basic training techniques to help with common doggy misdemeanors, such as: jumping, digging, barking, pulling on the lead and much more.
To start with I have addressed the common issues of puppies biting/mouthing and everyone's favourite, barking dogs!
These training methods/techniques are based from my own experience and have been applied successfully to my own wonderful fur-friends as well as many others over the years.
Please remember though that every dog is different and everyone interprets what is written in a slightly different way. However, I have tried to make everything clear, concise and understandable and I’m confident that if you apply these techniques you and your puppy will communicate and bond closely and have a wonderful life together.
Please click on each topic below to read further information:
Puppy Training
Your new pup has arrived and the household is all excited. It is important before the pup arrives to establish the ground rules with the family. Obviously house rules and manners for the pup need to be defined i.e. Is the pup allowed in the house, if so which rooms, who will feed and oversee training etc. Children must also be given ground rules too, such as when not to pick up the puppy, when to leave him alone, not to tease or hurt him and if old enough shown how to groom and play nice. You must have uniform rules so that consistency is maintained and the pup does not become confused. After the pup has the general rules in its mind you can start with basic training. All training should be done in a playful and relaxed way with lots of praise and treats.
It is important for puppies to start learning household rules and basic etiquette from the moment they come home. Having said that, it is even more important that the dog is raised in a positive environment where it obeys out of a desire to please you rather than out of fear. A fearful dog will not be nearly as pleasant a dog, and will not learn as much or as quickly as one that's treated as a member of the family from the start, that includes a measure of discipline, understanding and love. There is an awful lot of "teaching" that can be done in the guise of games for the pup, and we all know they love to play!
Teaching your puppy to 'come'.
For the average dog owner all that matters is that the dog reliably comes when called and is close enough to be put on lead. To begin like everything else we do with the pup, we take this in nice small steps and try to build on success rather than push to the point of failure. Have another member of the family hold the puppy while you show it the food bowl (complete with some tasty treats!) and walk a few steps away. Call your puppy while the other person lets it go, praise the pup and allow it to have the treats when it arrives. You can use a favourite toy or small food treats to encourage him to come to you throughout the day. Always try to call your pup when he is already paying attention, this increases the chance that he will come. Make sure you call him in an encouraging tone and bend down to make yourself a less dominating shape. Always praise your puppy when he comes. Never call him to tell him off that will just confuse and upset him, coming to you should always be a pleasant experience for him (if he is doing something you don't like you must then, go and get him). Slowly increase the degree of difficulty of the recall slowly.
At first do it only in the house or garden when you have treats or a toy and your puppy is paying attention. Then try it when he is wandering vaguely around but not absorbed in another activity, then graduate to having the toy or treats available intermittently (vary the availability of it to keep your puppy on it's toes). Then start calling him when it is busy with something else, then move to your local park and go back to no distractions and regular reward etc. Take it slow your patience will be rewarded.
Taking control
Dogs are a highly social "pack" species. Each pack has a leader that the other members follow and look to for "direction". When puppies enter our homes the human family becomes their new pack. Puppies adapt well to this artificial pack as long as the members of the family take on the role of leader. A pushy puppy receiving insufficient guidance and discipline and allowed to get his own way could eventually emerge as "pack leader" in the home.
When is the best time to begin training my puppy?
Formal dog training has traditionally been delayed until 6 months of age. Actually, this juvenile stage is a poor time to begin training. The dog is beginning to solidify adult behavioral patterns, dominance behavior is emerging, and behaviors that they have learned in puppy-hood may need to be changed. Therefore, it is best to begin teaching puppies from the time they are obtained, usually at 8 weeks of age. Puppies from our home begin their training at five weeks of age! By the time the go to their new homes they are competent at, “sit”, “down”, “come” have been used to a crate and have been well socialized and conditioned to novel stimuli. New owners are given training notes to help the puppy continue with their training without any confusion and miss interpretations. One important task to begin early is to establish your-self as the leader.
Are physical exercises necessary for gaining control?
Although there are many physical techniques that have been advocated for gaining control, it is the owners’ attitudes, actions, and responses to the new puppy (along with the puppy’s genetics) that are most important in the puppy becoming either well-mannered and responsive, or stubborn and disobedient.
Dog training literature has often discussed using scruff shakes and rollover techniques to discipline puppies. While these may change behavior, they are harsh that could lead to fear, anxiety and retaliation. Thankfully training techniques have changed for the better. It has been proved that it is much easier to teach what you want, rather than discipline what you don't want. This makes a positive, learning environment for the puppy to grow up in. There are advantages to teaching your puppy to assume subordinate postures and this can be accomplished with training the dog to obey commands for rewards and making then feel safe and comfortable in positions such as “Sit”, and “Down”.
How can I gain control without physical exercises?
The best way to show the puppy from the outset that each family member is in control, is to teach your puppy that each reward must be earned. The puppy should learn to display subordinate postures through reward training, rather than forcing the puppy to perform. Begin with some basic obedience training, teaching the puppy to sit, stay and lie down for rewards. Practice short sessions, multiple times each day. Whenever the puppy is to receive anything of value (affection, attention, food, play and walks) the puppy should first be taught to earn its reward by performing a simple obedience task such as “sit”.
Teach the puppy that rewards of any sort will never be given on demand. Only when the puppy is performing appropriate responses should rewards be given. You can also hold your puppy in submissive postures, and give it rewards for compliance. Do this when the puppy is calm, such as after a nap. Avoid fear and struggling. Be gentle, and only make the puppy be still for a few seconds in the beginning. A submissive posture may be gently holding your puppy on its side in a down position. Gradually you can increase the time you make your puppy submit. These sessions also have the added benefit of teaching your puppy to be still for later activities like grooming, teeth brushing and other maintenance tasks.
Set limits on the puppy so that it can learn that you are in control. Having the puppy sleep in its own bed or own cage rather than on your bed or sofa, helps to keep it in a subordinate position. When the puppy is taken for walks it should be taught to follow. This should begin at the front door where the puppy should be taught to sit, wait, and follow, and never allowed to lead or pull you through the doorway.
What should I do if my puppy misbehaves?
Undesirable misbehavior must be prevented, or corrected in the act. Allowing the puppy, even once to perform an undesirable behavior such as entering a restricted room, jumping up, mounting or jumping onto the sofa will serve to reward and encourage the repetition of the behavior.
There will be times when your new puppy misbehaves. How you reprimand your puppy will often influence later interactions. Young puppies are very impressionable and easily intimidated. Keep this in mind as you discipline your puppy. Harsh physical reprimands are contradicted. They only serve to frighten the puppy and perhaps make them hand shy. We want young puppies to look toward a human hand as something pleasant that brings comfort, food and affection. Puppies are easily disciplined with vocal intonation and loud noises. What is equally important is to redirect the puppy to the correct behavior after you interrupt what you do not like. Remember that punishment must take place while the behavior is occurring, not after.
If you catch your puppy misbehaving, try a loud noise such as clapping your hands or a loud "ah, ah". Remember, reprimands need to occur while the behavior is happening, preferably just as it begins, and never after. Often puppies will be startled when they hear these noises and temporarily stop the behavior. At that time you need to tell the puppy "good dog" and quickly redirect the puppy to a more appropriate task.
Another way to interrupt your puppy is with various types of noise devices. One such device is a "shaker can". This is an empty soft drink can that has a few small stones inside and then is taped shut. When given a vigorous shake it makes a loud noise, which will interrupt the puppy’s behavior. A silent dog whistle will work just as well.
The most important thing that you can do to avoid undesirable behavior is to supervise your puppy. Unsupervised puppies will chew and destroy objects as part of their natural curiosity and play. Rather than finding yourself with the need to reprimand your puppy, contain your puppy in a safe place until you can supervise and always make sure that YOU haven’t left anything lying around or in a place where puppy can reach. Always provide suitable play objects designed to entertain your puppy so that it will not want to destroy your possessions.
Most importantly, if you find something that your puppy has destroyed but you did not catch him in the act, just clean it up and make sure to supervise your puppy better in the future. Do not go get your puppy and bring him over to the mess and yell and physically discipline him. Remember that you need to punish the behavior you wish to change at the time it occurs. If you did not see your puppy chew up the object, all you are doing is disciplining your puppy for being present at a mess on the floor. Since that makes no sense to your puppy, your reprimands could create fear and anxiety, which could lead to aggression and owner avoidance.
What can be done for the particularly stubborn, disobedient, or headstrong puppy?
Puppies that are particularly headstrong and stubborn might need some fairly stringent rules. Control games will strengthen your relationship and forge a strong canine/human bond. Games will stop your pup from becoming bored and getting up to no good and also will help calm a headstrong puppy. Games are fun and rewarding. A thinking dog is a happier dog! Games are training in disguise. You will be able to establish control of your pup even when he’s excited, and really we have dogs for companionship so playing and having fun go together, don’t they! One point to remember though is your attitude while playing! Your pup will have fun only if you are enjoying the interaction too! Remember that any activity that your pup/dog likes but which you control can be used as a reward for good behaviour!
Tug-of-war games should only be allowed if the owner initiates the game, and can successfully call an end to the game, with a "leave", or "give" command when it is time to call it quits. Rough play must not escalate to uncontrollable play biting that cannot be controlled by the owner. It is far better to play games that encourage the puppy to think. Entertain and train to ensure a happy companion.
Here area couple of great games to start you off:
Game One
Taking treats Gently – an exercise to encourage a soft mouth
How: Start by teaching your pup to lick instead of nip (which if left through rough play etc can escalate to bite!). Smear some peanut butter onto palm of your hand, offer it and say, “Lick”.
If pup mouths madly, withdraw hand, wait for pup to settle, offer palm again and say, “Lick”. Repeat until pup accepts palm nicely.
Praise pup firmly but happily.
Now teach - Take It. (This teaches pups not to mouth you).
Firstly place tasty treat in your fist and let pup smell it.
If he mouths or licks, but doesn’t bite, open fist and say “Take it.”
If pup nips, say “Ahh” or “Ouch” and freeze your fist: if pup removes his mouth, open fist, offer the treat, and say “Take it”.
Now make your pup think about his actions.
Take another treat, allow pup sniff it, in a firm tone command, “Leave it” as you momentarily freeze your fist. If he attempts to get it you can very gently give his nose a tiny push with your closed fist as you repeat ‘Leave it”) Remember that he is learning so be understanding and patient!
When he pauses, open your fist slowly, offer the treat and say “Take it”.
Gradually make pup wait a few more seconds until he’ll wait 5, then 10 seconds before opening your fist and giving him permission to “Take it”.
Patience and timing go hand in hand so don’t rush your pups training. The next step is to hold the treat between your thumb and index finger of your right hand – instead of closed fist. Remind pup to be gentle as you say “Take it”. If he is gentle with his mouth, praise him softly and treat again. If he snatches or bites, say “Ahh” or “Ouch” and momentarily turn your back to him and withdraw your attention. Then repeat, always give your pup the choice of doing the right thing, praise and reward
Game Two
Follow the leader.
Set up an obstacle course in the backyard using anything you have lying around, from plant pots to plastic chairs. Some children’s play equipment is good too like hoops and tunnels. Make it interesting and challenging for both of you, but ensure it is safe and that your puppy doesn’t have to jump over high obstacles. Lead your puppy around the course and, using treats and praise, encourage him to follow you through the obstacles. This game helps increase the bond between you and your pup. It also shows your new friend that you’re the leader of the pack and if it follows you and looks to you for direction, it will be rewarded.
Game Three
Which hand has the food?
Start with puppy in Sit position. Have smelly treats ready. Place treat in one hand, let pup see you do this, place hands behind your back, then bring them in front of puppy about a foot apart, in an exciting tone tell puppy to find! At first he will sniff and paw at both hands but when he indicates the correct one, open hand and quietly praise and reward. Once he understands the principle start to make it harder by moving your hands back and forth and up and down and then hold still and command dog to find. Have a friend hold your puppy with its back to you while you place a treat under a cup in a line of three or more. Face puppy towards cups and command ‘find’. You will enjoy seeing your pup sniff out the correct one. Remember, a dog’s nose always knows! Positive reinforcement is used to encourage proper behavior.
Game Four
Fetch it!
Pups love to chase, pounce and retrieve so make these natural instincts work for you!
To begin have pup sitting beside you, have your pups favourite toy in one hand and a treat in the other, place toy about a foot in front of you and say “Fetch toy” use the name of toy such as, “Fetch ball” “Fetch rope” “Fetch chicken” etc. Always reward with treat and praise and once your pup is fetching one toy successfully teach same way with a new toy. Gradually build his confidence with frequent success and positive rewards. Eventually you will be able to command, “Fetch chicken” and your pup will run off and retrieve the desired prize!
Begin to make this exercise harder by adding two different toys, then three etc and ask your pup to fetch the one you want! Hide the toys in different rooms or around the garden and watch your friend have fun as he explores and sniffs out the requested toy! This is a lot of fun and over time with a lot of practise and patience you will have a smart, alert and very clever little dog that will amaze your family and friends with his unique find/fetch skill!
What types of handling should I begin with when I start to train my puppy?
Body Handling
You will do yourself and your new pet a favor by teaching your new puppy to allow you to handle his body. Throughout the life of your dog there will be times that you need to handle various parts of the dog’s body. You may need to wipe their feet, clean their ears, look for and remove ticks, give medication or bandage a paw. Yet if you have never handled your dog these simple tasks could become impossible. Handling also serves to simulate the physical communication that is exhibited by a bitch controlling her puppies or a leader dog over a subordinate group member. You should gently handle your puppy daily. Pick a time when your puppy is calm, like just after a nap. Do not try to start a body handling exercise when your puppy is excited, rambunctious or in the mood for play.
Place the puppy in your lap and touch the feet, open the mouth, look in the ears and under the tail. All the while, praise your puppy for being good, even offer a few tasty food treats. Be sure to keep initial sessions very short, since you want your puppy to succeed and not struggle. If the session is too long you run the risk of the puppy struggling and getting free. This could send a message to your puppy that it can "win". Always set up the puppy to succeed, but on your terms. Gradually increase the amount of time you control your puppy so that no struggle ensues. Soon the puppy will allow and perhaps anticipate these handling sessions. Then when you need to, you can treat your dog. All family members should participate in this exercise. An adult should supervise young children.
If you see any hesitance or reluctance on the part of the puppy, you will want to repeat the exercise, until you can accomplish the handling without resistance. Do the same exercise a little more gently or in a slightly different location, and give some tasty treats for compliance, and progress gradually to more difficult situations. Never force the puppy to the point that it exhibits fear or attempts escape. On the other hand if you do not gradually overcome the resistance the puppy may never allow the handling as an adult. Over time your puppy should allow you to place pressure on the back of its neck while it is in a down position, to roll it onto its side, to grasp its muzzle and to be lifted (if it is small enough). These forms of handling should not be used for punishment.
Resource guarding over food/toys
Another exercise that is so important is to get your puppy used to is having his food and possessions touched by humans. (Do Not let young children do this). Dogs in the wild will guard their food to prevent its loss but that is not necessary in the home. We are not going to take away our pet’s food and not give it back. Handle the food bowl while your puppy eats, pet the puppy and perhaps lift the bowl, place in a special treat, and return it. When walking past the puppy while it is eating you can place a treat in its food bowl, or reach down, pat the puppy and give a treat. This way the puppy learns to tolerate intrusions and disturbance while it eats and will not be startled and react aggressively should something unexpected happen when eating. If the treat you add is tasty enough, the puppy may even look forward to your approaches during feeding. If any growling should emerge you should seek professional guidance immediately.
You should also practice gently taking toys from the puppy. Quietly and calmly place your hand on the toy and tell your puppy "give" as you remove it from its mouth. Offer a tasty treat in return and praise the puppy, then return object as you tell your puppy to "take it". Repeat this training task multiple times daily in multiple locations. You should be able to handle any toy that your puppy has. This sends the message to the puppy that it is okay for you to handle its possessions, and that you will give them back. The puppy will trust you and then when you need to remove something from the mouth, your dog should accept your interference. Again DO NOT let children do this.
Home Training Guidelines
• Train you puppy in short training sessions of no more than 5 minutes each. Spread several sessions throughout the day or integrate training into other activities.
• Keep the training session fun. Stop any training session if you are feeling angry or frustrated.
• Never hit your puppy.
• Expose your puppy to as many different, positive experiences as possible. Include a variety of people, places and things in your puppy's life.
• Take the opportunity to reward good behavior.
• Prevent problems by confining your puppy when you can't supervise its actions.
• Understand your puppy’s abilities and train accordingly.
• Don’t assume s/he knows what you want. Practice makes perfect.
• Continue to treat your pup until you get the desired response at least 85% of the time. Only then can you begin to treat randomly!
• Remember to always have fun and enjoy your canine friend.
• Their love is unconditional.
I have enjoyed sharing my experiences with you and I hope you can take away some valuable pointers to help you, your family and your new ‘friend’ communicate and bond in a special and unique way that will last a lifetime!
Bite Inhibition
A puppy's mouth is its main tool for exploring the world. The puppy is constantly testing things by licking and biting what it finds. In a litter the puppy learns to control its mouth when its littermate squeals and stops playing if it has bitten too hard. We can do the same to help the pup understand how easily us humans are hurt.
It is probably too much to ask that a dog learn not bite if someone falls on it, breaking its leg. By teaching mouth control it is more likely that the bite will not be a serious one. Teaching mouth control involves teaching the puppy that the way it uses its mouth can cause a fun time to end.
This training should only be attempted by an adult.
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When a puppy bites you:
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• Don't pull away. Pulling away sends the message that you still want to play.
The pup should release its hold on you. When it does give it a toy to chew or bite on.
If the puppy continues to come after you, leave the room in a huff and let him be without a playmate for a minute or two. You don’t want him to get into trouble while your are out of sight so make sure he is safe and can’t chew anything valuable!
If you are communicating correctly with your puppy, the bites should get softer. Little by little start reacting to the softer bites just as you did to the harder ones. Over time the mouthing will also diminish.
You might ask, “Why not squeal from the beginning at every bite and mouthing incident”? Your puppy initially does not realize that it is his mouth that is causing the problem. He needs to learn to focus on his mouth and that can best be taught by only reacting when he is vigorously using his mouth. If we start by squealing at every little nibble, your puppy may not make the connection between the squeal and the movement of his mouth. When your puppy is not able to identify a cause for your behavior he may become confused and unsure of your actions!
Always be clear, confident and consistent and your puppy will soon learn what is acceptable behaviour and what is not.
Keeping Christmas Safe and Happy for you and your Four-legged Friends
Every man and his dog love Christmas! Unfortunately though Christmas and all the trimmings that go hand and hand with the festive season can and very often do cause your pet a lot of hassles!
Tinsel, garland and glass ornaments can be dangerous to your pets, as can the metal or plastic hangers often used to hang them on the tree. Boisterous dogs and inquisitive puppies could easily knock them off and could chew or swallow them! A safer option would be to change them for ribbon, which would look very nice and easier to secure, and would be lot safer for your pets.
Fairy lights are another hazard and care must be taken to ensure that there are no cables/cords left hanging for people or pets to trip over. Place your tree as near to a power outlet if possible and away from any high traffic areas.
It is also important to keep an eye on the whereabouts of your pets as your friends’, family members and other visitors come and go. A door or gate left open could spell disaster. The holiday season is a busy time, and it can be easy for pets to slip out of the house unnoticed in all the commotion. It may be a good idea to keep your pets in another room while family members are coming and going.
This brings another issue. Your pets stress level. The holiday season can be a stressful time for us humans, and this stress can befall pets as well. If your pet shows signs of stress, be sure to place him in a quieter area until the chaotic activity has subsided. Some pets are easily frightened or stressed by the loud noises and frequent activity that takes place this time of year, so it is important to monitor your pet for signs of distress and to act accordingly.
Christmas fare also has its hazards. We quite often give in to our pets and spoil them with extra tit bits at this time of year but we really should be more aware of what we are giving them. We could be doing them more harm than good!
For example:
Chocolate, coffee, and tea are very toxic for dogs. Even small amounts can cause diarrhea, seizures or death. Unsweetened baking chocolate and dark chocolate are most dangerous.
Bones, cooked or uncooked, can tear or obstruct the digestive system.
Sweets, onions and gravies or spicy foods can cause pancreatitis, which is a serious inflammation of the pancreas and can be fatal.
Alcoholic beverages are attractive to some dogs, especially sweet alcoholic beverages such as eggnog. If you to hold a party just remind guests to keep glasses out of reach from your pet and put away glasses after parties. Even a small amount of alcohol can be fatal.
Tin foil, meat strings, and toothpicks can cause serious digestive problems if swallowed.
Garbage contains discarded food and the smells can be enticing for your pet. Keep garbage covered and out of reach.
Plastic wrapping can obstruct the digestive system and cause severe problems if swallowed.
Apple seeds, cherry, peach and plum pits contain the toxin cyanide, which again could be fatal to you pet.
Macadamia nuts, while generally not fatal, can cause your pet to experience severe illness.
Grapes and raisons can cause irreversible damage to the kidneys, possible resulting in death. Ingesting as few as 4-5 grapes or raisins can be poisonous to a small dog/puppy!
If you can try keep your pets’ routine as normal as possible and that goes for his meals too! If you must spoil him there are lots of healthy special treats made especially for their needs.
We wish you all a Safe, Happy and Tail Wagging Festive Season!
Summer Safety
Summer is just around the corner and that means more time spent outdoors with your best friend. Just like us our pets can suffer from the heat, which can cause heat related illness as well as skin damage and in more severe cases skin cancers!
Some pets such as lightly coloured or white ones are more prone to the effects of the sun and those with shorter noses are more prone to heat stress, so limiting the time they spend outdoors will certain help them keep safe. If you do see any discoloration or sores on your pet please get them checked out. Much better to be safe than sorry!
There are lots of ways to help keep your best mate happy, healthy and cool this Summer.
If your pooch loves the beach and the great outdoors just as much as you why not invest in some pet sunscreens, these are now available to help protect your friend and are well worth it.
Try to exercise them early in the morning and again later in the afternoon.
Provide plenty of shaded areas, fresh water (two or three plastic bowls are better left around just incase one gets knocked over!) and a child’s paddling pool filled halfway is great for cooling off!
Our ‘kids’ thoroughly enjoy the “Doggy Pops” we make and you can try them too and your mate will love them! Simply place some pieces of cheese, salami or chicken in some water and freezer them. You can use them as special treats, to help with puppies while they are teething or simply to cool them off when the weather gets a bit too steamy.
Filling and freezing 2liter milk cartons are great to leave on the patio/verandah or in the shade for your pet to lick and lay on top off to help keep cool!
As you know our best friends have a very poor in built ‘cooling system” – they can’t sweat effectively, and panting is a very ineffective method of cooling their body.
If you do take your pooch out and about you could get them a cooling bandana! Our guys love these and they certainly do work. The bandanas are made with non-toxic polymer crystals that can absorb up to 30 times their weight and stay cool for several hours. Through the science of evaporation your mate is kept cool as the bandana slowly dries. For extended cooling ability, refrigerate before use and the best part is that they are washable and reusable. You can purchase one from our online shop by visiting SHOPDEEJAY.COM.
Some breeds are more prone to heat injury/stress than others. Large double-coated breeds like the Chow are particularly susceptible, as are Malamutes, Huskies and Newfoundlands. Dogs with shorter faces/noses such as Bulldogs, Pugs, Sharpies etc have less ability to cope with an extra heat load due to their short and narrow respiratory systems.
Working dogs will work and play all day given half the chance, but remember just because they appear to be fine heat stroke/stress can happen quite rapidly. Supervision of your pet is vital as sometimes pets can succumb to the heat if their cooling mechanisms are exceeded by weather extremes, over excitement or strenuous activity!
Older pets, those overweight, unwell pets of even puppies will be more susceptible to heart and respiratory problems so great care must be taken to ensure that they are kept calm and cool.
We all know NEVER to leave your pet unattended in a parked car. The temperature can rise to lethal levels in less than six minutes, even with the windows open!
Please remember that roads and pavements get extremely hot, if you wouldn’t walk on them bare foot then don’t expect your pet to do so! Be considerate and always think of your pet.
Heat stroke/heat stress, signs to look out for:
1. Panting is heavier than normal might even sound raspy.
2. Pet seems weak but restless, can’t settle.
3. Gums and tongue very red.
4. Skin very warm to touch as well as dry.
5. Excessive salivation may even start to froth
6. High temperature, 104’F.
7. Unsteady gait.
8. Appears anxious, eyes might be glazed.
9. Feet feel hot, even sweaty.
10. May even begin to have diarrhea/vomiting.
If you do suspect that your pet might be suffering from heat stroke or heat stress please act quickly as it could mean life or death!
If your dog experiences any of the above symptoms, provide immediate first aid. Your rapid response may save your pet’s life.
Reduce your pet’s temperature by moving him/her into shade and immerse them gradually into cool water, such as in a stream, pond, the sea, horse trough, bathtub, or wading pool. Otherwise, wet your pet thoroughly, pouring a continuous stream of cool water over their body, beginning with the head and extremities, use whatever is available. If possible, apply ice packs around them. Apply wet towels to their abdomen, groin, legs, head, and neck.
If you can, take your pet’s temperature and continue applying cool wet towels until it returns to normal.
As soon as possible take your pet to your Vet, even if you think they are okay. It is always better to be safe than sorry!
Why Do Dogs Bark?
Different surroundings, changes in diet, lots of attention/lack of attention, stress and anxiety can upset your dog and cause him/her to bark quite out of character.
So I’d like to chat about that very touchy subject of barking dogs. Barking is a dog’s natural means of communication. A dogs bark can signify territorial protection, pleasure in seeing us, exertion of dominance, or an expression of some need like: hunger, frustration or boredom. Barking is not a behavioural problem, until it is produced in excess.
Certain breeds are prone to more frequent barking, some breeds like the Basenji for instance hardly bark at all. Excessive barking is usually triggered by a stimulus and the cure lies in finding the cause of the inappropriate barking.
Naturally, boredom is a major cause. Dogs are social creatures and hate being alone. Even being locked inside or tethered outside can cause a dog to become anxious and frustrated and so trigger it to bark excessively. Lack of exercise and mental stimulation causes pent-up energy, which is released through barking.
Environmental sounds can also trigger barking. Sounds like passing cars, strange voices, thunder, lawn-mowers, motorbikes (usually the posties!) children playing or even someone knocking at your door.
Seperation anxiety, or even the temperament of your dog can cause problem barking. An over aggressive dog may bark at the slightest provocation, where as a strongly territorial dog may bark at any stranger or passer-by that dares venture near your property, dogs with high chase-prey drives might bark at every bird that flies over- head!
The first step in solving the problem is to identify what is causing the bark response. If your dog is barking at noises then behavioral modification methods can be used. For instance, when your dog is barking use a verbal reprimand such as “Quiet” then reward instantly when he stops barking. Basic obedience training is useful, as your dog should understand that you are the “Leader” and deserve respect. Patience and lots of it are required. It is no use yelling at your dog to stop barking, he will interpret your contribution as you joining in and he will bark even more.
Indirect intervention methods can also be applied. These techniques can range from spraying your dog with vinegar/water while it is barking then praise and reward when he stops, to using noise producing devices such as a Coke can 1/3 rd filled with small stones, this works like a rattle and when used correctly will distract your dog from barking enough for you to praise him for being quiet. If your dog is resistant to these then obtaining a citronella collar, Aboistop, should help your dog get the message that barking is not rewarding. These work by releasing a spray of citronella up into the dogs face every time he barks. The dog quickly learns to associate the unpleasant smell/taste with him barking; eventually your dog will get the message. These work great in your absence too! The only negative is the cost, around $200 but some local councils do rent them out so it might be worth giving them a call.
Dogs need to bark but with patience, reward and understanding you can manage it and enjoy your dog.